The Devils in the Detail
Crafty so an so's, adept at bodging stuff, on and off trail, will probably be able to tell you that, in the event of a missing rotor bolt (or 5 in jacks case on one occasion) being discovered, a bottle cage bolt will fit the thread, and get you home. however, Ive gone one better
The threads are indeedthe same size, but the whole point of using T25s are rotor bolts, is the low profile head allowing good clearance of the rotor. Due to this, a bottle cage bolt will not always fit the bill, it can sometimes foul the caliper (suprisingly messy if you fit it and dont check the wheel spins first)
but substituting (lets face it defunct ;-p ) bottle cage bolts, for a couple of T25s in advance, you can achieve more than one advantage:
- The holes in the frame are still covered/sealed from dirt
- The T25s give a much cleaner line (in my opinion) and thats always a good thing (thats what I was going for initially, giant OE braze-on bolts are rather lumpy)
- The bolts will now fit any rotor, foul free, be it on your bike or some other unfortunate souls. Wahoo!
- rotor bolts are generaly threadlocked as standard, so wont rattle loose
- ...and i suppose they are marginally lighter, but meh
go rummage in your spares box!
in other news, the 456 hub gave up the ghost, died and it turns out the carts cant be taken out without a 300 quid blind bearing puller (BOOO HISS on-one!) one saving grace is that the flange dimensions match the ProII perfectly, so (although im sure a "proper wheel builder" will chastise me) I could use the old rim and spokes. I also found a rather fitting welsh dragon in a mona lisa in aber, which now resides on the monster headtube, and if i say so myself, looks awesome. A little nod to Nant yr Arian and cronies.